|
Yalikavak
|
Sandima |
Bodrum |
Castle of St.
Peter |
Museum of Underwater Archaeology |
Myndos Gate
|
The Mausoleum Museum |
Gumusluk
|
Sirince |
Camlik
Open-Air Rail Museum |
Milas |
Gumuskesen
|
Firuz Bey Camii |
lassos |
Euromos |
Priene |
Lake Bafa
|
Herakleia and Latmos |
Labranda
|
Pecin Kale |
Gerga |
Incekemer
|
Colluhani |
Ephesus |
Alabanda
|
Alinda |
Akyaka |
Dalyan |
Caunos |
Aphrodisias
|
Pamukkale |
Hierapolis
|
Yalikavak
On the approach Yalikavak, over the spine of a hill, you find a row
of windmills, and from here, a breathtaking view of the whole area,
including the bays of Tilkicik, Pasa and Agacbasi and the lower,
deep green, bay at Yalikavak itself. The name Yalikavak means
poplars by the sea but the abundance of trees are actually not
poplar, but plane trees. However, they do attest to the fact that
Yalikavak does have a very good supply of fresh water, hence its
greenness.
There is a lone windmill on the shore,- near the harbour, where the
local fishing boats moor alongside the visiting yachts with a narrow
beach stretching in each direction. The town centre itself is small
and charming, with cobbled streets leading to the many cafes and
restaurants. The central mosque is quite splendid for so small a
town. Yalikavak hosts a street market on Thursdays.
Back to Top
Sandima
Sandima is a deserted, Greek village, one of many that were vacated
during the exchange of populations in 1922. Today, renovation work
has started on one of the houses there and suggests that the village
will not remain empty for much longer. Sandima is situated in a bowl
at the base of a ring of barren hills and is accessible by car but
makes for a very pleasant walk. The views afforded of Yalikavak are
glorious and a couple of rural villages along the way offer added
interest.
Following Yalikavak's main street from the P.T.T. heading; toward
the sea, take the turning on your left just before reaching the
harbour front. You will pass the market area on your right. At the
T-junction, turn left. Shortly, you will see the 'Belediye'
(council) building on your right, take the right turn immediately
before you reach it. Park your car here, if you wish to continue on
foot. The walk from here to Sandima is 2.2 kilometres, uphill in
places.
The road becomes a track and runs straight. After 1.1km, a road
joins from the right, it follows a riverbed on your left and you
will see bridges across to the houses on the other side. Masses of
opuntia bring a different character to the countryside, in spite of
the presence of the more familiar olive tree.
The road starts to ascend and to your left you will see a
dome-shaped structure. This is a 'Sarnic' or 'Gumbet', used for
storing water, there are many dotted throughout the peninsula, often
plastered and painted white but this is a particularly fine example.
Maintaining an adequate supply of water has been a major problem in
the arid, volcanic region of the Bodrum peninsula. There is no
shortage of rainfall in winter but, with no great depth of soil to
hold the water, there is need for some other system, hence the 'Sarnic'.
If you have walked the 1.4km to this point, this is also a good spot
to take a rest and enjoy the panorama.
Continuing, 4 minutes later you pass a fountain. Flowers decorating
the wax-include wild orchids and the, more shrubby, fringed rue
which grows around the fountain. The stream changes course now
causing you to cross it to continue in a steady ascent.
You will start to see the empty houses scattered over the hillside.
Head right, toward the eucalyptus trees but turn sharp left, into a
walled-in trail, before reaching them. Head uphill, you reach an
ornamental water fountain at what would appear to be the old village
square. Silence hangs heavily around the deserted streets, creating
an unreal atmosphere.
Take time to wander and explore the crumbling houses before
returning by the same route.
One of the old houses has been recently
restored and now is home to a small cafe and art gallery.
Back to Top
Bodrum
Bodrum is a fascinating medley of exciting sights, tastes, aromas
and people. It is a delightful coastal town that, in ancient times,
was known as Halicarnassos. It was home to the famous historian
Heredotus (484-425 BC) and the Carian queen Artemisia II (377-333
BC), who commissioned the Mausoleum, one of the Seven Wonders of the
Ancient World, to be built here.
Halicarnassos was founded about 1200BC by Dorian Greeks and thanks
to the accessible harbour and fertile surroundings it quickly
developed into an important commercial city. Originally, belonging
to the Dorian league of six cities (Halikarnossos, Myndos, Knidos,
lassos, Keramos and Kos), the rule of Halikarnassos passed from the
Lydians, to Persians, to Carians, to Roman and finally to the
Ottomans.
The striking crusader Castle of
St. Peter, the Petronian, with its well-preserved wall and
towers, dominates the town; it is one of the great showpieces of
Medieval Architecture. The castle has four towers, the English, the
French, the Italian and the German tower, plus a dungeon, the
doorway inscribed with the foreboding words "Inde Deus Abest" (Where
God Does Not Exist). It was built, between 1402 and 1437, by the
Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem, based on Rhodes.
St Peter's Castle stands guard over the harbour entrance, as the
beautiful yachts and gullets cruise quietly by drenched in sunlight
by day, fabulously illuminated by night. The castle is without doubt
the focal point of Bodrum.
The castle houses the
award-winning Museum of Underwater Archaeology. The museum
holds some real treasures. The Glass Ship Wreck Hall holds a wreck
that was found 33 meters down, off Yassi Adasi (near Marmaris) in
1973. The oldest found, the wreck dates to 1025 and was a vessel
carrying 25 tons of commercial glass between Byzantine and Fatimid
ports. Many of these artefacts actually survived in one piece all
those years underwater. There are also exhibits of amphorae and a
7th century eastern Roman shipwreck on display.
Undoubtedly the most awe-inspiring exhibit is the resting-place of
Princess Ada. Her remains and sarcophagus were found in 1989 on a
hill above Bodrum during construction work. She was the sister of
King Mausolos and the wife of Idreus. She died around 360-325 BC at
the age of 40 and was buried along with her gold jewellery and
wreath of myrtle leaves, all of which are on display. Her skull was
sent to Manchester University for facial reconstruction, so, now, on
entering the exhibition it is the fine lady herself who greets you!
Under Carian law women enjoyed great authority as wives of their
brothers and when King Mausolos (who reigned 376-353 BC) died, his
sister-wife Artemisia II succeeded him. It was she who commissioned
the construction of the Mausoleum, one of the Seven Wonders of the
Ancient World, in his honour. Its architect was Pytheos and it was
decorated with friezes made by the most celebrated Greek sculptors.
The colossal white marble and green stone tomb stood 46m/150ft high
and was surely a sight to behold. The friezes depicted battle scenes
of Alexander's successful campaign against the Persians. Erected in
351 BC the Mausoleum survived in good condition until the 12th
century, when it was damaged by earthquakes and was totally
destroyed in 1552 when the Rhodian knights took down the long
standing walls of the Mausoleum to reinforce the Castle against
Ottoman attack (they lost the battle). Indeed, the green stones of
the Mausoleum can be seen throughout the castle today. The reliefs
and sculpture that adorned the Mausoleum were recovered in the 18th
century and are now housed in the British Museum in London.
During the last centuries, Bodrum became a place to send dissidents
exiled from Istanbul for their anti-government ideas. Considered to
be being beyond the civilized world, Bodrum was then accessible only
by boat or by donkey trail.
"They thought they were sending me to my hell, but I've found my
heaven". These were the words of Cevat Sakir, "the fisherman of
Halikarnos" as he became known, as he first lay eyes on Bodrum from
his hill top position. He was exiled in 1925 for anti-government
activities. He fell in love with Bodrum, where he chose to live the
remainder of his life; the palm trees along the harbour front were
one of his contributions. The virtues of hidden-away Bodrum filtered
to artisans, drawing them away from the over-populated cities and
Bodrum became a bohemian retreat.
Back to Top
Myndos
Gate
Today Bodrum stands on the site of Halicarnassus, the capital of the
Carian Civilization. The Carians were under the rule of the Persian
Empire and led by an independent Satrapy under Mausolos. The most
important section of the 7km city wall is the Myndos Gate; this
western boundary is a unique example of the fine craftsmanship and
stonework that has survived more than 2000 years. Vaulted tombs from
the Hellenistic and Roman periods are found in the vicinity. The
actual burial chambers of these tombs, almost all opened by Newton
in the last century, are under the vaulted sections. Terracotta
sarcophagi were found in the tombs.
Built by Mausolos, the western part of the city wall was fortified
with towers, these measuring approximately 7 x 8.5 m at the base
with a large moat to the front of the gate. One of the towers of the
Myndos gate has come down to the present day in almost its original
height. The gate got its name from the antique city of Myndos.
Turgutreis Caddesi, an east-west main street running from one end of
Bodrum to the other, connected the Mylasa Gate to the Myndos Gate.
Unfortunately, the Mylasa Gate is no longer standing, but its
location has been established as having been near the main road on
the outskirts of Bodrum. Both gates withstood Alexander the Great's
initial attack in 334BC when he was on his way to invade Asia Minor,
present day Anatolia. But after another very dramatic battle where
both sides had heavy losses the city was invaded and with the
exception of the Mausoleum was razed by Alexander's armies, the
Carians opened a new page in their history under Queen Ada.
Restoration of the site was completed in 1989. The site is open to
visitors all the time and entrance is free. Please refer to the
Bodrum map for directions. The turning to the left off the main road
takes you uphill along a cobbled track, just before a carpenter's
workshop and traffic lights.
Back to Top
The Mausoleum Museum
The Mausoleum is the tomb of king Mausolos, dating back to around
350BC, the entire structure stood at an impressive height of over 50
meters which is the equivalent of a 20 storey building. It was made
famous by writers in antiquity and became one of the seven wonders
of the ancient world. Mausoleum, originating from Mausolos, is still
the general term in Western Europe for a large tomb.
In a world where the average life span of a human being is less than
80 years, it must be very important to some people to live on
through the centuries to our own day. 2350 years ago, in the land
called Caria, Mausolus, the ruling Persian Satrap filled up his
treasury by taxing even those who wished to wear their hair long and
started to build himself a monumental tomb on the proceeds.
Artemisia his sister and wife took over building his grand vision on
his death, which was never entirely finished due to a struggle over
the satrapy between Pixodaros and Ada. After surviving for many
centuries, it was demolished by an earthquake that devastated
Western Anatolia in 1304, and then the Knights of Saint John used it
as a quarry to rebuild the castle. The Mausoleum was built from a
green stone found at Koyunbaba 2kms north of Gumusluk and these
green stones can be clearly seen in the castle walls today.
The area where once stood the dominating structure of the Mausoleum
has now become an open air museum. Little remains apart from the
foundations in a dilapidated hollow, but reliefs, drawings, a scale
model and architectural pieces concerning the structure are
displayed in the long building to the left of the entrance. This
enables the visitor to envision the grandeur and splendour of the
monument, and helps to take you back through the centuries to
imagine what ancient Halicarnassus would have looked like with this
huge structure dominating the skyline.
Open : Tuesday to Sunday, 8.30 - 12.00 & 13.30 - 17.00 (last
entrance at 16.30) Back to Top
Gumusluk
Less touched by the summer tourist trade, Gumusluk is beloved by
many residents of Bodrum, for their Sunday fish lunch, winter or
summer. The village remains largely unspoilt, due to a conservation
order protecting the ancient site of Myndos, a lelegian city dated
from around 500 BC, over which it is sited. Much of, the city was
built by King Mausolus and many of its remains can be seen,
literally, underfoot.
Gumusluk has a rich history. Alexander the Great tried,
unsuccessfully, to capture the ancient city. Gumusluk means
"silvery", some say that it gained it's name from the old silver
mines up in the surrounding hills, while others say it is from the
silvery look of the sea just before sun-set.
Rabbit Island is just off the beach, reached by a semi-sunken
causeway. The rabbits are mostly domestic, introduced by a local who
takes food across to them.
The centre of the present day village of Gumusluk actually lies two
kilometres inland of the shops and restaurants at the beachside.
Back to Top
Sirince
If you are spending-the night in Selcuk, and you have time, the
Greek-built, hillside village of Sirince is well worth a visit.
Just 8 kilometres east of and above Selcuk, midst the grape vines,
peach and apple orchards, lies Sirince with its old fashioned stone
houses with red-tiled roofs. The villagers (fruit farmers) came from
Salonica after the exchange of populations in 1923.
Apart from its obvious visual charms, Sirince owes much of its
popularity to the village's famous apple and grape wines. A day out
here is not complete without vigorous sampling, so it is highly
recommended that you leave your car in Selcuk and use the hourly
minibus service from the bus station.
From the car park and Ataturk bust, take the street between the tea
garden and Dereli restaurant. At the end follow signs "KILISE'YE
gider" to the Church of St. John the Baptist. A sharp left turn
reveals steps right. Halfway up, a door on the left leads to a
courtyard leading to the church. Following the steps around the back
and down the other side of the 19th century building also affords a
peak inside at the pebble-mosaic flooring and wooden vaulting and
great views of the rest of the village. Making your way back down
from here, you will inevitably end up in a few backyards but the
locals appear not to mind in the least.
Stroll the winding streets, and admire the architecture and the
views, or haggle with the local women for lace. If a little old lady
invites you into her "antique house", then you can be sure that she
will want to sell you her overpriced crochet and knitted goods.
These are almost certainly bought in from elsewhere and can be found
at cheaper prices and sold with a more charming attitude in any
town.
Ottoman tales tell of a time that the village was much larger and
more prosperous, when the Greek population called the village
Cirkince (ugliness), later changed to today's Sirince
(pleasantness). Back to Top
Camlik Open-Air Rail
Museum
Around 10 kilometres south of Selcuk on the main road, the village
of Camlik is the site of the Open-Air Rail Museum. More than two
dozen steam locomotives, most of them German-made and pre-World War
I, are scattered on disused sidings. There is no labelling or
explanatory placards, and nothing to stop you clambering up into the
cabins either. Back to Top
Milas
The modern town of Milas stands on the site of ancient Mylasa. From
around 350BC, Mylasa was the capital of the Independent Kingdom of
Caria before Mausolus moved to a more defensible site at
Halicarnassus, the Bodrum of today.
All that remains of the city walls is an impressive Roman Gateway,
the Baltali Kapi (The Gate with Axe). The axe in question, a
double-headed attributed to Zeus, is faintly carved on the keystone
of the arch.
Milas is much visited on Tuesdays for it's famous street market.
Here you can buy anything from goats to carpets.
The area is surrounded by rich farming land providing much of
Turkey's tobacco crops and acres of cotton. Milas offers a few
unusual and surprising monuments that are worth seeking out.
Back to Top
Gumuskesen
On the western edge of Milas, set in a park, Gumuskesen (literally
cuts-silver) is a handsome Roman Tomb built in the second century
AD. In the rectangular grave chamber, four pillars support the upper
storey. It has a pyramid roof supported by an open colonnade of
twelve columns with Corinthian capitals. A hole in the floor of the
upper storey is presumed to have been to pour wine down to the
deceased lying below. If, as is claimed, Gumuskesen was designed as
a miniature replica of the wondrous Mausoleum in Halicarnassus, (of
which so little remains) this cute monument could not possibly begin
to convey an idea of the scale and magnificence of the original.
Back to Top
Firuz Bey Camii
Milas continued to be an important town throughout the Byzantine and
Turkish periods. Three fine mosques remain in Milas from the period
of the Mentese Emirate: Orhan Bev Camii (1330), the Ulu Camii
(1378), and the largest and most interesting Firuz Bey Camii (1394),
in the western part of the town. Built just after the Ottoman
conquest, the pinkish marble blocks are borrowed from the ancient
Greek temples.
Back to Top
lassos
Kiyikislacik, the Turkish meaning 'little barracks on the coast', is
a sleepy fishing village built amongst the tumbled ruins of the
ancient city of lassos. The site, also accessible by boat from
Gulluk, may have been settled as early as the Bronze Age, lassos is
set on a hill at the tip of a peninsula with gorgeous bays on either
side of it.
With poor soil at lassos, from early times, settlers were attracted
here for the excellent fisheries and anchorage. Fishing tales
abound, including one of a young boy befriended by a dolphin that
after the boy's daily exercise would carry him out to sea and return
him safely to shore. The tale was depicted by the city's coinage in
Hellenistic times.
Approaching from the modern village you first pass a Roman
mausoleum, recently converted to house some of the artefacts found.
Across the isthmus beyond, the rest of the site is scattered over
the peninsula within Hellenistic walls (repaired by the Byzantines).
The site has been well restored. At the entrance in the car park, a
map of the site shows the route and boards along the way show
explanation and diagrams, unfortunately in Turkish and Italian only.
The well devised route encompasses a well-preserved Roman
bouleuterion, a large stoa of Artemis Astias dating to 190AD, an
obscure rectangular structure known as a Caesarium, an agora, a
great view compensates the scanty remains of the theatre, a Roman
villa with definable murals and extensive floor mosaics and a small
temple to Demeter and Kore. All remain alongside the obvious
Byzantine fortress from where you can enjoy the fabulous panorama.
Finishing with a stroll along the defence walls at the seashore,
back to the car park.
Excavations by Italian archaeologists started at the site in 1960,
the most important finds now in the Izmir Archaeological Museum.
Back to Top
Euromos
12kms North West of Milas on the main Izmir road, a Corinthian
Temple of Zeus is virtually all that remains of the Carian city of
ancient Euromos. Set in an olive grove, beside but sheltered from
the main road, the site justifies a detour if you are in the
neighbourhood.
A legacy of the generous Roman emperor Hadrian (117-138AD), the
temple is one of the best preserved in Asia Minor today. The
Corinthian temple dates from the 2nd century AD with, of the
original 66, 16 columns still standing, linked to one another by
architrave. On the south side is a piece of the cornice with a
lion's head open-mouthed to serve as a waterspout. On the west and
north sides are panels with dedicatory inscriptions to financial
supporters of the temples construction. Human sacrifice to the God
would have been made at the altar.
A path leading from behind the custodian's kiosk takes you to a
round tower on the hill, which belonged to the city wall (300BC).
Traces of the city of Euromos, including a massive Hellenistic
theatre of which barely 5 rows remain, lie several hundred meters
over the hill, still not excavated.
The name, Euromos, dates from the Hellenistic period and means
'strong1. There has been a settlement here since the 5* century BC,
the city being referred to at various times as Kyromus, Hydromus and
Europos. During Hellenistic and Roman periods, after Mylasya, the
city of Euromos was most important in this area, a fact made clear
from evidence that the city was minting its own coins from the 2nd
century BC to 2nd century AD.
The most exertion is required for the walk from the top of the
village, across the valley to the theatre and city walls so it's a
good place to begin. A stonewalled pathway forks, right are the
towers of the city wall and a spectacular view of the lake, left
takes you to the unrestored theatre. Small and oddly inland
affording no views, its best features are the seats and flights of
steps cut into the rock. As you descend the village, the column and
seat remains of the Bouleteurion fill one family's back yard! At the
bottom of the school playground lays the agora and a riellenistic
Temple of Athena stands on the promontory beyond. By the lake are
the Sanctuary of Endymion, the ancient necropolis and a Byzantine
castle.
Probably for most of us, the best parts of a visit to Herakleia are
that it gives a chance to observe Turkish village life, relatively
unaffected by tourism and to enjoy a really good fish lunch.
Back to Top
Priene
Once a flourishing port, Priene is one of the finest examples of
Hellenistic town design. There is very little Roman interference,
probably because the harbour was already beginning to silt up in
Roman times and today languishes, 15kms away from the Aegean.
The League of Ionian Cities held its congresses and festivals here
in the 5000 seater theatre (which is a short uphill climb). The five
throne type seats were reserved for the municipal dignitaries. The
large number of private houses, uncovered at Priene, makes the site
particularly interesting and has provided much information about day
to day life in the city.
The setting is dramatic, with steep Mount Mykale rising behind the
town, and the broad flood plan of the River Menderes spread out at
its feet. Of the buildings remaining, the five standing columns of
the Temple of Athena, designed by Pytheos of Halicarnassus, are
looked upon as the epitome of an Ionian temple. There were
originally 30 columns and the temple took nearly two centuries to
complete. From here the best views afforded by the site can be
enjoyed.
Back to Top
Lake Bafa
Lake Bafa used to be part of the Aegean Sea, but with the silting up
of the Buyuk" Menderes River (the Meander) it is now 20kms from the
sea. It is surrounded in the North by immense marshy flatlands that
make up the Buyuk Menderes River Valley. The lake at one hundred
square meters is the largest on the Aegean coast and is a fresh
water lake with frogs and eels living in it. It can taste salty
because the separation from the ocean is not perfect and canals link
the lake's western end to the river close by. There are several
lakeside restaurants along its shore and near Camici village is the
ruins of a Byzantine monastery.
Mount Latmos, part of the extinct volcanic Besparmak range of
Mountains, is behind the site of Herakleia.
Back to Top
Herakleia and Latmos
Latmos has been made famous by the story of Endymion the shepherd
boy. The story goes...
Endymion, a handsome shepherd boy, was asleep on the side of Mount
Latmos. He had been given eternal youth by the Godess, Hera but
condemned to eternal sleep by Zeus. He slept day in day out by the
shore, and one day Selene, the moon goddess, saw him there and fell
in love with him. Henceforth, every night she came down to look at
him and make love to the sleeping boy. The legend maintains that 50
daughters were the result of their 'relationship'.
This site was also a refuge for Christian hermits during the Arab
invasions of the 8th century AD and there are several ruins of
monasteries and churches. The story of Endymion was given a more
decorous turn. The boy was acclaimed as a mystic who had learned the
secret name of God from studies of the moon. Once a year, priests
opened his tomb and attempting to communicate the name of God to
man, the bones inside would emit a strange humming sound.
In and around the village of Kapikiri, yellow signs to either side
of the main, uphill street indicate the major buildings of Heracleia
under Latmos.
Back to Top
Labranda
The sanctuary of Zeus at Labranda built on a south-facing hillside
overlooking the Milas plain, near the village of Turbe is arguably
the most beautifully set archaeological zone of Caria and vet one of
its least visited
Labranda was never a city. It was an important religious centre
linked with Mylasa by a sacred way over 12kms long. Festivals
including athletic contests were held here and the remains of a
stadium have been located at 600m, the climate is agreeable even in
summer, the site is built on a series of artificial terraces.
Three Androns, used for sacred banquets given in connection with
ceremonies at the shrine, remain. So-called Andron 13 was donated by
Mausolus in the 4th century and is relatively intact. The ruins of
the Temple of Zeus, originating m the 5th century BC and rededicated
by Idrieus, now stand no more than knee high. A massive tomb
contains five sarcophagi, so large that the tomb must have been
built around them
Two gateways of Ionic Style, one reserved for pedestrians whilst
chariots entered the other, are impressive. Most prominent, the
monumental staircase, 12m wide leads to the lowest terrace of the
site. Roman baths and a Byzantine church adjoin a so-called Doric
house and beyond lie the probable foundations of Labranda's famous
'fish oracle'.
The resident fish, bedecked with jewellery according to several
ancient sources, were thrown bits of food by then custodians. If the
morsels were accepted oi not, the inquirer's fortunes were m the
ascendant or decline.
Back to Top
Pecin Kale
The town of Pecin (Becin in local dialect and signposting) is
situated 5kms east of Milas on the road to Oren (access via a marked
800m narrow side road). Pecin Kale, the castle perched at a height
of 213m on a rocky crag like an eagle's eyrie, is a landmark that
can be seen for many kilometres around.
The city was developed in 1291 when the emir Mentese conquered the
region, before the rise of the Ottomans, and made Pecin capital of
the principality. The Mentese were Turco-man tribesmen who swarmed
into Anatolia in the 13th century, one of many nomadic clans from
central Asia who occupied lands that had formerly belonged to the
Byzantine Empire. It remained throughout the 14th century when new
buildings transformed the town. The first city of Mylasa may have
been located on this hill and the five Turkish baths revealed here
indicate that it was indeed, once a well-populated city.
The ruins cover an area about 400m south of the castle and are
silent witnesses to the town magnificence during the Mentese period.
Fascinating as it is, Pecin still has much to reveal. The beauty of
the setting and tranquil atmosphere also make it one of the most
attractive sites in the area. Open 08.00 to sunset daily.
Back to Top
Gerga
The ruins here are the only known surviving example of an early,
indigenous town, that is, untouched by Greek or Roman influences.
There is a toadstool like rock which bears the name Gerga in Greek
letters nearly 3 feet high; the visitor is amazed to find the same
thing repeated again and again in at least 19 places along the route
to the city.
Shored up by impressive buttresses-, stands Gerga's most famed
building, an extraordinary little temple, which still stands,
excellently preserved and complete with its gabled roof of stone
slabs with the legend GERGAS carved on its pediment.
It was thought, by French scholar A. Laumonier, that Gerga was some
kind of sanctuary and that the temple was the tomb of the local God
or hero, Gergas. The writing of the name Gergas, to have religious
or magical motives, to protect the deity. However G. Bean had a
somewhat different impression. The little buildings seemed to him as
fountain houses rather than tombs; 'for the site is almost dry in
summer. There seems to be no sign that the structure was ever
enclosed and inside is a carved dolphin (a symbol of water). Another
building has an opening in the back wall, which seems to be a pipe
hole. None of the buildings contain any visible provision for a
burial or funerary signs.
The site of Gerga is the most mysterious of Caria and every visitor
will have his or her own opinion.
Back to Top
Incekemer
Near the headwaters of the Cine River, the valley narrows at a point
known as the Gokbel pass. Twelve kilometres south of Eskicine, the
graceful Incekemer Ottoman Bridge spans the gorge. You'll find
parking space at the roadside and from here, it is a ninety minutes
walk to the site of Gerga.
Back to Top
Colluhani
Milas's bustling bazaar district covers the warren of alleys on the
western slope of Hisarbasi hill and at its centre is the 18th
century Colluhani, one of the last functioning, unrestored
kervanserays in western Turkey. On many days, the premises will be
full of donkeys and carts. Craftsmen take tea or smoke hookahs as a
break from their labours.
Heading southeast behind the P.T.T., there is a district of the
sumptuous, old houses of Milas, fine examples built by the wealthy
tobacco and cotton merchants of the 19th century. Watch out for
yellow arrow-signs for "Uzunyuva", (Tall Nest) indicating a single
Corinthian column of the first-century BC Temple of Zeus, now
adorned with a stork's nest (hence the name).
Back to Top
Ephesus
Ephesus is one of the largest and best-preserved ancient cities
around the Mediterranean and is a place not to be missed.
The extensive site will take three or four hours to see. There are
only two drinking water taps, both near the entrance, so take a
bottle of water with you. Open from 8am, last ticket sale 6pm,
closes 6.30pm, an early or late start will take advantage of the
coolest hours as well as avoiding the mobs.
Ephesus appears to have attracted settlers from the earliest of
times. It had a sheltered harbour on the mouth of the river Cayster
and was at the end of a traditional trade route that linked the
great cities of the Middle East with the Aegean. It was probably
founded during the 13th century BC. The Greeks first settled there
in about 1000 BC and in the following millennium the city was ruled
by a succession of powers; Cimmerians, Lydians, Persians, Athenians,
Persians again, Alexander the Great and his successors, the Kings of
Pergamon and Romans.
Ephesus was an important centre of early Christianity. St Paul made
it a base for evangelism for over two years (in about 53-55 AD) and
the church there seems to have flourished. Indeed, he infuriated the
local craftsmen who were engaged in making silver shrines of Artemis
(her cult had developed there from the times of the first Greek
settlers) and whose trade was being damaged by conversions from
paganism to Christianity. This provoked the riot in the theatre
described in Acts 19.
According to tradition, the Apostle John brought Mary, the mother of
Jesus, to Ephesus, where she is said to have lived out her days on a
hilltop south of the city, known today as 'Meryemana'.
In the 2nd century AD, Ephesus was the most important commercial
port in the Mediterranean region, with a population of about
300,000. It was the provincial capital of Rome, and the Temple of
Artemis was considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient
World.
Walking along Curetes Street, the Marble Street, and the Arcadian
Way, one can see agoras, fountains and temples, private houses,
mosaics, baths, a brothel, public latrines, the Celsius Library, the
huge theatre with a seating capacity of 25,000 and so much more
Looking more closely, chariot wheel ruts in the roads are evident,
along with early Christian symbols (designating the houses and shops
of believers), advertisements (including that for the brothel) and
graffiti.
Other attractions close to the main site at Ephesus include; the
Cave of the Seven Sleepers, the Basilica of St John, the excellent
Archaeological Museum (closed on Monday) in the centre of Selcuk,
and Meryemana (believed by many to be the site of the last home of
the Virgin Mary).
Back to Top
Alabanda
Alabanda had several claims to fame. Most notably for a profusion of
scorpions and as the source of a precious gem, like a garnet but
darker in colour and rough. It was also a well-known provider of 'alabandicus',
a black to purple-red marble, which is soluble in heat and used in
the manufacture of glass.
This region was densely populated in the past and many ancient
remains can be found, regrettably at Alabanda only the old
bouleuterion is obvious, its walls standing up to 6m high. The
theatre has almost disappeared.
According to legend King Kar named his son, Alabandos, and the town,
Alabanda, after a successful cavalry battle (Carian 'ala', horse and
'banda', battle). In the 4th century BC, after the death of Queen
Ada (sister of King Mausolus), Alabanda became the Carian capital.
Alabanda developed good relations with Rome and was a free city.
Strabo reports that her citizens lived in luxury and debauchery and
had many girls who played the harp.
The ancient Carian city of Alabanda lies on the left bank of the
Cine Cay (Marsyas in antiquity), a river that flows into the
Meanders. The site, perfunctorily signposted, is about 8kms west of
Cine.
Back to Top
Alinda
The ruins of Alinda are rarely visited as they lie off the beaten
track beside the modern town of Karpuzlu, 25kms from the main
Muğla-Avdin highway.
Queen Ada was exiled to Alinda during a power struggle with her own
family, after losing the battle for succession to the Heratomid
throne during the middle of the 4th century BC. Alinda was a mere
fortress, where she awaited an opportunity to reverse her fortunes.
A few years later, when Alexander swept through Asia Minor in 333BC,
Ada offered to surrender Alinda and all her personal resources in
return for his aid to regain her royal position. Her proposal was
accepted, and Alexander stayed in Alinda for some time preparing
their combined and eventually successful seige of Halikarnassus.
During this period they became close friends and it seems that Ada
even adopted Alexander as her son. After their victory over her
brother, Ada was left to rule over most of Caria, but she was the
last of the remarkable Hecatomnid line and little of consequence
occurred locally after her death.
The town is surrounded by remains of a strong 4th century BC wall
made from large stone blocks. A two storey Hellenistic watchtower,
which overlooks the theatre, forms part of these walls. They remain
in perfect condition and, like so much Carian stonework, bear a
strange resemblance to Inca construction half a world away. The
market hall and Greek theatre look out over the town below. Beyond,
a narrow path climbs up on to the main acropolis of Alinda.
Back to Top
Akyaka
The "new" road that climbs the mountain of Sakartepe at Akyaka
follows the ancient route for l0 kms, and we can be fairly sure that
this would have been the road down which Alexander and his troops
came. The first records of the pillaging of the ancient tombs come
from this time.
Akyaka itself has a few remains from Roman and earlier times, though
it is not thought that there was a town. The "eucalyptus road" was
the Roman road, but closer to Akyaka, there is a track going across
the plain that is even older.
The eucalyptus trees were planted along the Roman road in 1939 as
part of the Government's project to eradicate malaria, which
achieved total success by 1945. Unfortunately, in its native land,
Australia, mosquitoes have adapted themselves to the eucalyptus tree
and there it is not the effective deterrent that it is here in
Turkey.
The riverside fish restaurants of Akyaka make an excellent lunch
spot for journeys from Bodrum to the Dalyan Delta.
Back to Top
Dalyan
Dalyan achieved international fame in 1986, when developers wanted
to site a luxury hotel on nearby Iztuzu beach, a breeding ground of
the endangered Loggerhead Turtle. A major international storm blew
up, with David Bellamy championing the cause of the
conservationists. Thankfully the development was stopped and the
beach is now a protected area.
Life in Dalyan revolves around the Dalyan Cayi (stream/ river) which
flows past the town. The boats that ply up and down the river,
navigating the maze of reeds reflected bright green in the water,
are the preferred means of transport to all the local sites.
Dalyan means "timber fishing weir". Bass and mullet swim upstream
from the sea to Koycegiz Lake, spawn, and when returning to the sea
they are caught in the "dalyans".
Besides its success in the field of tourism, the area surrounding
Dalyan is agriculturally productive and fertile; cotton is grown
here as well as all sorts of fruits and vegetables - these are all
on display in the market on Saturday, when villagers come from miles
around to sell their produce.
Above the river on sheer cliffs are the weathered facades of Lycian
tombs cut from living rock, circa 400 BC.
To the south of Dalyan on the Mediterranean coast, lies Iztuzu
beach, a fine place for sunbathing and swimming, but more famous for
the Caretta Caretta (Loggerhead Sea Turtles), which have been in
existence for 95 million years! There are regular boat and minibus (dolmus)
services to the beach. Please be aware of the wooden stakes in the
beach to mark nesting sites. The road route is particularly scenic,
offering unrivalled views of Sulungur Lake and apart from one nasty
hill, the thirteen kilometers is not unpleasant by mountain bike
especially in the cooler months.
Iztuzu, Dalyan's 'turtle' beach, was voted the best beach in the
world in 1995.
Back to Top
Caunos
Caunos is one. of the oldest historical sites in southwest Turkey.
Legend has it that Caunos, the heroic son of King Miletus, gave his
name to the city. He was reputed to have had an incestuous
relationship with his twin sister, Byblis, but eventually rejected
her love. To escape her, he ran away and founded Caunos. When he
deserted her, she was distraught and committed suicide by hanging
herself.
The citizens of Caunos were responsible for the striking Lycian rock
tombs situated across the river from Dalyan. Approximately half of
the 150 graves carved into the rocks are chamber graves, consisting
of square holes that would have been sealed with a door. The other
graves lying above are the temple graves with Ionic columns and
graves. The term 'Temple Grave' merely describes the shape of the
grave and does not infer that death services were held there.
Some of the lower tombs are accessible and it's a worthwhile climb
to view the larger ones. A track leads directly from the tombs to
the city of Caunos.
Kaunos and the principal Lycian City of Xanthos were the only two to
resist when Harpagus attempted to conquer the region in the 6th
century BC. When Caunos eventually did fall under the Persian
invasion, the desperate citizens gathered their families and
retreated into the Acropolis where they made a funeral pyre with all
their belongings, their men fighting to the death.
The Acropolis' mountain is approximately 150m high and can be seen
from far away. The town walls and towers on the northern slope date
from the Middle Ages, but the origin of the ruins at the summit date
far back into antiquity, circa 300 BC. The theatre situated close by
has 34 tiers providing seating for about 5,000 people. Stone facing
supports the northern part of the theatre, while the southern end is
carved into the rocks. To the north of the theatre, a church and a
large bath house are dated from Roman times, an adjacent building
was either a temple or a library. Below, evidence of the ancient
harbor can be seen with its Agora, reflecting the various
civilizations that settled here; Hittite, Hellenistic, Roman and
Byzantine.
The ancient harbor, now Suluklu Golu (Lake of the Leeches), is at
present about 3km from the open sea due to the continuing silting-up
process. Excavations are being carried out at the site, but are
currently restricted to the area towards the harbor and agora below
the baths.
The best time to visit Caunos is late afternoon, when there are
fewer visitors and a more evocative atmosphere.
Back to Top
Aphrodisias
Situated on a high plateau over 600 metres above sea level. Ringed
by mountains' and watered by tributary of the Buyuk Menderes River,
Aphrodisias is one of the more isolated and beautifully set of
Turkey's archaeological sites. In 1959, Professor Kenan Erim of New
York University visited the site and noticed chunks of marble all
around him; "delicately fluted columns doubled as hitching posts".
Since then, excavations and restoration of the site have been
carried out. Spectacular discoveries have been brought to light; a
very well preserved theatre, a delightful little odeon, a Temple of
Aphrodite, a remarkably intact stadium with a seating capacity of
30,000, a fine bath complex and a bishop's palace. '
Named after Aphrodite, the goddess of love, Aphrodisias was for
centuries no more than a shrine, albeit an important one. Her
development as a city during the 2nd century BC was probably
provoked by her position on the borders of Caria, Lydia and Phrygia,
and by a proximity to the great east-west and north-south trade
routes.
It was under Roman rule that the city became most prosperous, and
was heavily patronized by various emperors. Close to a quarry, which
produced fine, pale white marble, a school of sculpture, which
acquired wide spread fame, developed here. The city became an
intellectual and cultural centre and was renowned as a seat of
medicine and philosophy. The schools here attracted students not
only from Asia Minor, but also from other parts of the Roman Empire.
At the entrance to the archaeological site, there is an interesting
museum (separate entrance fee) housing beautiful marble sculpture
retrieved from the city.
Back to Top
Pamukkale
Pamukkale or Cotton Castle is unique and extraordinary, a freak of
nature, in the shape of the edge of a plateau, absolutely smothered
in white travertine terraces. Some shaped like water lilies, others
resembling shell-bathtubs' with stalagmitic feet, the simplest ones
could be bleached rice terraces out of an oriental engraving.
The phenomenon is caused by a spring, saturated with dissolved
calcium bicarbonate, bubbling up from the feet of the Cal Dagi
Mountains beyond. As the water surges over the edge of plateau and
cools, carbon dioxide is given off and calcium carbonate
precipitated as hard chalk (travertine). What you see now has been
accumulating for millennia, as slowly but surely the solidified
waterfall advances southwest. Seen at sunset, subtle hues of ochre,
purple and pink are reflected in the water, replacing the dazzling
white of mid-day.
Back to Top
Hierapolis
Even without this spectacular geological phenomenon, the ancient
city of Hierapolis, from the exact middle of which the Pamukkale
spring emerges, would merit a visit. Amongst the ruins the
colonnaded street, plutonium, a Temple of Apollo, the largest
necropolis in Turkey, and the Martyrion of St. Philip built in honor
of the apostle martyred here in AD80.
The restored Roman theatre is exceptional, the 46 rows of seats
originally accommodating 10,000 can still hold up to 7000 spectators
comfortably, and performances are held here during the International
Pamukkale Song Festival (in late June).
Possibly founded in about 190 BC by Eumenes II, King of Pergamon,
the city became famous because of its thermal baths which were
believed to have healing properties. In the Roman times, Hierapolis
enjoyed considerable imperial favor. It was a prosperous trading
centre and ancient inscriptions refer to guilds associated with the
woolen industry such as dyers, purple-dyers, wool washers and carpet
weavers. Nail makers and coppersmiths are also mentioned.
A special kind of marble was quarried here. Its unique colouring
which was, believed to have been, produced by seepage of the mineral
waters. Back to Top
|
